Jubrique sits at 558 meters altitude in the Serrania de Ronda, about an hour's drive from the coast near Málaga. The road winds through the mountains and offers views that make you stop regularly for photos. This white village has something special: you can't drive through it. Everything happens on foot, via stairs and steep streets that cling to the hillside.

The village has about a thousand residents. Most earn their living from chestnuts, which grow everywhere here. You see the trees around the village and references to this fruit pop up regularly in the streets. Anyone walking around here climbs quite a few stairs. Your calves feel it by the end of the afternoon.

Moors, Romans and chestnut trees

The hills where Jubrique stands have been inhabited since the Iron Age. The Romans came for the iron in the red soil and built roads. In the eighth century, the Moors advanced, attracted by that same wealth. The name Jubrique probably comes from the Arabic word for abundance or splendor.

The current village dates from the fifteenth century. Christians conquered the area in 1485 and signed a treaty allowing Moorish residents to keep their traditions. That didn't last long. Religious pressure led to uprisings in 1500. Many Moors fled to the mountains or North Africa. Later, during the French occupation, Jubrique became a hideout for bandits who first fought against the French and then made the roads unsafe.

Anyone heading further into the mountains will find Jubrique la Vieja. That's the old location of the village, higher up in the mountains. Now only ruins remain visible there.

Stairs, alleys and views

Jubrique climbs up the hillside like a whitewashed pyramid. Almost all connections between houses are stairs or slopes. Cars stay at the parking areas around the village. They're free and within walking distance of the center.

The alleys are narrow and wind between the houses. Flowerpots hang from the facades. From various spots you look out over the valleys and mountain peaks of the Serrania de Ronda. On clear days you can see all the way to the Mediterranean Sea.

The church of San Francisco de Asis stands where a mosque once stood. The building dates from the sixteenth century and received a restoration in 1970. There are also two chapels: El Castanuelo and Santa Cruz del Chorrillo. Both have Moorish foundations and later became Christian buildings.

Hiking between mountains and abandoned villages

At the entrance to Jubrique there's a board with hiking routes. The surroundings offer plenty of choice for short and long walks. Some paths lead past abandoned villages like Monarada and Rotillas. Walls and remains of houses still stand there, half overgrown with vegetation.

The route to Charco Azul takes you to a natural lake with a small waterfall. The water is fresh, ideal for cooling feet after a climb. Another popular walk goes to Charco Esteban, also a natural pool.

The highest peak nearby is the Sierra Bermeja, which reaches 1449 meters. From the top you see the Mediterranean Sea and the coastline. The ascent does require some fitness. The Solana route and the Matagallar path offer vistas without extreme elevation changes. Chestnut forests and rivers define the landscape.

Festivals with empanadas and medieval costumes

From May 4 to 6, Jubrique celebrates a costume festival. Residents dress in medieval clothing and reenact battles. It's a mix of history and spectacle that draws large crowds.

On May 28 and 29 there's a pilgrimage to the Chorrillo chapel. Dancing, competitions and community activities fill those days. From late September to early October the village festival kicks off, with concerts and performances. Religious ceremonies follow from October 4 to 8.

Every Wednesday is Empanada Day. The church square fills with residents selling homemade empanadas. Visitors can taste and chat with locals. It's an easy way to get to know the village.

What you eat here

The cuisine revolves around agriculture and livestock. Fennel stew is a classic for cold days in the mountains. The warm gazpacho differs from the familiar cold version on the coast. Here it's a winter dish.

Small omelets with cod and young garlic shoots are a popular tapa. Sausages and slaughtered meat come from local pigs. The bars and restaurants serve these dishes without frills. Recipes pass from generation to generation.

Practical matters

Jubrique is easiest to reach by car. From Málaga airport you drive via Estepona toward the mountains. The road is well maintained and passes through other white villages. Count on an hour to an hour and a half of driving.

Public transport is scarce. Buses do run, but not frequently. A rental car gives you the freedom to explore the Serrania de Ronda at your own pace. Parking at the village costs nothing. You walk a few minutes before reaching the first houses.

Hiking shoes are useful because of the stairs and slopes. Even outside the village, paths are sometimes steep and rocky. Bring water, especially in summer. The sun can be intense and shade isn't always available.

For overnight stays there are a few small hotels and apartments. Choice is limited. Many visitors stay in Estepona or Ronda and make a day trip to Jubrique.

(c) photo and source: www.jubrique.es