Bélmez de la Moraleda sits right in the middle of Sierra Mágina Natural Park in Jaén province. This small village has around 2,000 residents and is surrounded by olive groves as far as you can see. The economy runs entirely on those olives, supplemented with some fruit cultivation and sheep farming in the mountains.

The location is special: the village forms a natural passage between Granada and the Guadalquivir River via the Jandulilla valley. That strategic spot explains why people have lived here for centuries, building watchtowers and fortifications.

From Iberians to Romans

Bélmez's history goes way back. The Recinto de Bélmez, an Iberian settlement, dates from before the 5th century BC. Archaeologists found a fortified tower here that guarded the valley. In the 4th century BC, trade through this valley reached its peak.

Later, the Romans settled here with a villa rústica, a farm along the river. That agricultural tradition continued into the Middle Ages.

Arabic period and conquest

In the 9th century, the area came under control of a Moorish family. In 945, a mosque was built – we know this from an inscription recording the construction. The name Bélmez comes from Arabic and means 'protected place'. Just look at the position: the castle stands in a small valley, surrounded by mountains.

Between the 10th and 14th centuries, the structure changed significantly. Where there were once separate villages with shared defensive positions, walled cities later emerged. In 1316, Prince Pedro of Castile conquered the castle. The Muslims later won it back and strengthened the defenses, until the final conquest in 1448 by Fernando de Villafañe.

Castles and towers

Castillo de Bélmez lies three kilometers from the current village, near a clear water source. The imposing keep has three floors and four corner towers. The outer walls are made of rubble stone, with ashlar at the corners and windows. Inside you see alternating plaster and brick, with pointed arches supporting the domes.

Two round watchtowers protected the castle: Torre del Lucero to the southwest (towards Huelma) and Torre del Sol to the southeast. Both had small walled courtyards and vaulted chambers. In 1985, all three received protected monument status.

Castillo de Chincoya appears in literary writings. Alfonso X the Wise wrote about it in his Cantiga 185, about a miracle where the Virgin Mary helped a Christian castellan. The square fort stands opposite Castillejo de Neblín at the river.

The village grows

In the 16th century, the population moved to the current location. Diego de Carvajal began renting out land to farmers in 1534, who built their houses near the La Moraleda spring. For centuries they grew wheat, barley, flax and hemp. Goats, pigs, cattle and horses roamed the fields.

Around 1850, about 900 people lived here. By the late 19th century, there were mainly pastures (1,712 hectares) and forest (1,670 hectares), with less farmland (1,326 hectares of wheat and 116 hectares of olives). A hundred years later, the picture was completely different: 1,679 hectares of olive trees dominated the landscape.

The first half of the 20th century brought social conflicts. In 1930-1931, 75% of workers were unemployed. Trade unions and political parties gained influence. The population grew to 2,588 residents in 1950 – the highest point ever. After that, numbers dropped back to the current 2,000.

Sights in the village

The town hall is a fine example of popular architecture. On the first floor, four asymmetrical windows, above that four more with a continuous balcony. Inside you'll find an authentic courtyard with a fountain in the center and galleries with arches and a balustrade.

The parish church was built in 1966. You enter through a colonnade. On a brick wall hangs a high relief of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. The slender square tower has a pyramid-shaped roof and three small rectangular windows, a clock and a bell opening.

Nature in Sierra Mágina

Barranco del Arroyo Gargantón lies seven kilometers west of the village. This mountain slope stands out for its hawthorns and dogwoods. Between the rocks near the Gargantón nest swifts, black wheatears and kestrels. You reach it via a path that starts directly from the village.

Cuevas del Chato y Baltibañas are 7.5 kilometers from the center. This mountain area has interesting geological formations but is only suitable for experienced speleologists. You get there on foot via a mountain path.

Bélmez de la Moraleda combines centuries-old history with the tranquility of the natural park. The olive trees give the landscape color, the castles tell tales of borders and conquests, and the mountains offer hikers fresh air and beautiful views.

(c) photo and source: www.belmezdelamoraleda.es