Between the Sierra de Cañete and the Sierra Zorrito lies Almargen in the province of Málaga, a typical Andalusian village where time seems to tick more slowly. Everything here revolves around agriculture: olive trees as far as the eye can see, grain fields swaying in the wind, and sunflowers turning their yellow heads toward the sun. The village has around 2,000 inhabitants who like to gather in the central square for a chat or a cup of coffee.

The white houses create a peaceful streetscape, not too tall, not too low. Just Andalusia as it's meant to be. Anyone looking for mass tourism and crowds should probably skip this place. But if you want to experience authentic southern Spain, you've come to the right spot.

A name from Moorish times

Almargen means 'the two meadows' in Arabic. That name makes sense when you drive through the green landscape. Archaeologists have made hundreds of finds showing that people lived here as early as the Stone Age. The area always had water in abundance – so much that Almargen now also supplies water to the surrounding villages of Campillos and El Saucejo.

From the Copper Age to the Roman and Islamic periods: all civilizations have left their mark here. The necropolis of Almirón provides the most impressive evidence of this. You can visit this burial site in artificially created caves if you're curious and follow the paths through the landscape.

Treasures from prehistoric times

What archaeologists have unearthed here will make your jaw drop. A phallic-shaped stone (a so-called idol), a stele engraved in the Bronze Age, and examples of the first prehistoric swords – these are finds you normally only see in museums. Something also remains from the Iberian period: at Cerro de la Grana, researchers found a fortified settlement.

At the Centro de Interpretación in Almargen, you can see everything archaeologists have unearthed over the years during a guided tour. Much more accessible than trudging through the fields yourself.

From dependency to independence

Until the early 15th century, Almargen fell under Teba. After that, the village got its own government. The influence of Seville is clearly visible in the architecture. The finest example stands in the middle of the village: the Iglesia de la Inmaculada from the 16th century, with a Mannerist facade and a Baroque bell tower.

The church arose around the central square, the Plaza María Auxiliadora. Around it grew the alleys and streets that together form the oldest part of Almargen. In the 19th century, the village got its first town hall. Since the regional reorganization of 1833, Almargen has belonged to the province of Málaga.

A church with art treasures

The Iglesia Parroquial de la Inmaculada Concepción stands on the Plaza María Auxiliadora and forms the beating heart of the village. The 16th-century building houses two special features inside: a Mudéjar wooden ceiling and the Gothic altarpiece of La Piedad. Both are well worth seeing if you appreciate architecture and religious art.

Caves and healing springs

In the surroundings of Almargen lie the caves of Casablanca and Pedro Santo. At Casablanca, a healing spring also bubbles up from the ground. The water from this spring – and from the Arroyo Salado – feeds the municipal swimming pool in summer. Swimming in mineral water sounds like luxury, but here it's just business as usual.

The Casa Blanca natural area forms the place where the Arroyo Salado originates. A beautiful area for walking if you appreciate peace and space.

Landscape between two provinces

Almargen sits in what the local population calls the 'zona falsa': a transitional area between Antequera and Ronda. The municipal area offers varied landscapes with hills, plains, and waterways. For years, the municipal government has wanted to create an official walking trail connecting Almargen with Jerez, making use of an unfinished railway line from 1936.

Economy of pork and arable farming

The economy mainly revolves around pig farming, which Almargen shares with the neighboring towns of Teba and Campillos. There are also companies that produce animal feed and a slaughterhouse. As for crops: grain, olives, and grapes form the main products of the agricultural lands around the village.

Practical information for visitors

Almargen sits about an hour's drive from Málaga and Seville. The village has few facilities for tourists – there are some small bars and restaurants where you can taste traditional dishes. The best time to visit is spring, when the fields are blooming and the weather is pleasant.

You can only visit the Centro de Interpretación with a guide. Ask at the town hall about the possibilities. The archaeological sites in the surroundings are often difficult to reach without local knowledge, so a guide is actually always advisable.

In summer, the mineral water swimming pool attracts visitors from far and wide. Temperatures rise considerably then, so swimming in cool spring water feels like a blessing.

Accessibility and position

From Málaga, you drive via the A-357 toward Campillos and from there continue to Almargen. The road winds through rolling landscape with occasional glimpses of the mountains in the distance. From Seville, you take the A-92 and turn off at Osuna.

Public transport is scarce. A rental car gives you the freedom to also visit the surrounding villages and natural areas. The nearest train stations are in Antequera and Seville.

(c) photo and source: www.malaga.es